Maybe Not On Your Travel Bucket List, Yet
So, what cities are on your travel bucket list? If you’re from North America, you’ll likely checkmark the obvious European cultural centers such as London, Paris, Rome, Florence and Vienna. Each offers a lifetime of art, architectural and gastronomic experiences. For Europeans, common wish list cities include New York, San Francisco and Vancouver.
For others, the bucket list features Tokyo, Sydney, or Buenos Aires. All are worthy candidates.
Sculpture reflections in the courtyard of Buffalo’s Albright Knox.
What About Cities That Time Passed By?
Have you ever considered Cleveland, Ohio; Buffalo, New York or Jackson, Mississippi? When I mention what a great time I’ve had in those cities, I often get the “raised eyebrow of disbelief” look.
No, they can’t compete with “the big list”, but each has its own charms (just ask their tourism offices!). They may be past their glory years, but if you’re in the region, they’re worth your attention. The trick is to find the gems in each city.
Rock and Roll Hall mecca in Cleveland.
Hello Cleveland! It’s Time to Rock & Roll!
For me, the magnetic attraction in Cleveland is the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. I had avoided it for years – rock and roll in a museum, you must be kidding – but since going the first time, it’s drawn me back for another three visits. I always get there first thing in the morning and spend the whole day inside! So much to see and hear, including films, audio and various interactive exhibits.
Designed by one of the world’s most celebrated architects, I.M. Pei, the glass pyramid on Lake Eire is the place to let your immaturity run wild. Get a front row seat for everything that moves your rock and roll heart from the roots of blues, R&B and folk, to rock, disco, EDM and more. Where else can you see Muddy Waters’ guitar, the Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper outfits, the instruments Led Zeppelin played on their first album, Janis Joplin’s psychedelic Porsche or one of Michael Jackson’s gloves?
Sometimes the Smaller Exhibits are the Most Memorable
In addition to the major themed exhibits, the curators have included numerous pocket pieces, some of which will have you close to tears.
Grave of Jim Morrison in Paris, France.
On one visit, I walked along a narrow display case, about 30 feet long, of documents that outlined Doors’ singer Jim Morrison’s entire life. No glamour, no music, just a series of papers, many of them donated by his mother. Starting with his birth certificate, it included school report cards (he was a brilliant student), letters to his parents from UCLA, letters explaining how he wanted to be a musician, his excitement at getting a record deal, letters from the road, all the way down to a letter of recommendation from his father to the judge in Morrison’s obscenity trial. Finally, there was his death notice. Here was a libertine’s life reduced to a row of mundane little papers.
The Albright Knox collected modern art, even 100 years ago.
You’ve Been to the MOMA. How About Buffalo’s Albright Knox?
The “rust belt” cities such as Cleveland and Buffalo were built on blue-collar manufacturing. That means they were also home to barons of industry who owned the factories, steel mills and banks. Many were benefactors to their towns, and their largesse is what we still enjoy today.
In Buffalo, a favorite attraction (aside from the Anchor Bar for wings and beer) is the Albright Knox Art Gallery.
Founded in 1862 as The Buffalo Fine Arts Academy, in 1905 it became the Albright Art Gallery after receiving funds from business magnate John J. Albright to build a permanent new home of white marble. It got a second shot in the arm in 1938, courtesy of Seymour H. Knox, Jr., another wealthy businessman who not only underwrote an addition to the building, but also provided ongoing funding for the acquisition of new works of art.
Bruce Springsteen checking out Matisse’s guitarist.
It is interesting that the mandate of the Albright Knox is “collecting, conserving, and exhibiting the art of its time”, so in a sense it has always been a modern art gallery. That means that today’s focus is still on art of our time, which keeps the gallery perennially fresh.
A Rothko next to a Still. Great combination!
The collection includes masterworks by Paul Cézanne, Paul Klee, Fernand Léger, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Henry Moore, Pablo Picasso, Henri Rousseau, Willem de Kooning, Jasper Johns, Franz Kline, Roy Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol.
The image at the top of this post is Wall Drawing #1268: Scribbles: Staircase by Sol LeWitt, which was installed in 2010. You get the total 3D experience approaching it, then walking up the stairs and finally viewing it from different angles from the landing at the top.
You can easily spend a half a day here.
Courtyard of the Mississippi Museum of Art is a delight.
When You Think of Jackson, Mississippi Do You Think of Art?
Probably not. For me, Jackson brings back the 1960’s with civil rights marches and Freedom Riders. More recently, it’s where an anti-L.G.B.T. law was passed in the guise of religious freedom.
We were on a music tour of the American South and decided to stay overnight in Jackson. That’s when we discovered the Mississippi Museum of Art.
This is a beautiful building in a perfect setting, surrounded by an art garden. The collection is inspiring, much of it from the American south. Such a revelation! Right then and there, I knew we had to seek out more regional southern American art.
In addition, the feature exhibition, When Modern Was Contemporary: Selections from the Roy R. Neuberger Collection highlighted 52 works by influential American artists from the first half of the 20th century. This included modern masters such as Alexander Calder, Stuart Davis, Jacob Lawrence, Georgia O’Keeffe, Jackson Pollock and Mark Rothko (a personal favorite).
With our server. A wonderful man who keeps his sense of humor.
“Tell people we wear shoes and have our teeth.”
After our morning visit, we decided to have lunch in the Art Garden.
We started talking with our server who, to us, was obviously gay. And we, obviously from our accents, weren’t from the south. He asked whether we had been reading about Mississippi in the news, referring to the anti-L.G.B.T law. We said yes. With a roll of his eyes, he indicated that the man who drafted that hateful law was sitting at the table right behind us. And then he said, “When you go home, tell people that down here we wear shoes and have our teeth.”
The Mississippi State Capital. Beautiful building. Ugly legislation.
The irony was that our server was a very religious man and was soon leaving for a trip to Uganda to help educate a town about HIV/AIDS. He and a group had raised the money for the trip through their church. It would be his fourth trip.
Art and enlightenment on an idyllic Mississippi day.
Important Details
Cleveland
More Cleveland attractions and entertainment
Buffalo
More Buffalo / Niagara attractions and entertainment
Jackson
More Jackson attractions and entertainment
A GPS and Portable WiFi Can Be a Lifesaver
If you’re renting a car and doing an American road trip, your rental may come equipped with GPS, but maybe not. In any case, we like using Google Maps on our phones, but we don’t like paying for cellular service.
That’s where a Teppy for portable WiFi has been the perfect answer. We carried Teppy in our pocket or purse and took it everywhere. In the car it’s a GPS, in a café we were able to upload pictures, or send emails with no expensive data charges. Teppy was also perfect for any online work on the road including web updates and social media.
Choosing a Guide Book? Get 10% Off Lonely Planet Books Here
Along with the websites and other travel planning tools, we still like to have a guide book handy. We’ve tried them all, and these days we prefer Lonely Planet books. Use our link to get 10% off your total order when you enter EARTHTRIPPERS10 during checkout, where it asks for the Discount Code. Please note, this offer is valid only in USA and Canada.
Hotel Accommodation in Cleveland, Buffalo and Jackson
For hotel accommodation, we like Booking.com. Photographs show off the properties, and real reviews help you choose the hotel that’s best for you. You’ll find a great selection, current prices and pages that make booking easy.
Remember, cities can get busy, so book early for the best prices and selection. Use these direct links to reserve now in Cleveland, Buffalo or Jackson.
Thinking of Airbnb?
We’ve also rented Airbnb throughout USA. We wrote an article about renting Airbnb, 12 Tips for a Great Renting Experience to help you make the right decision. There’s a wonderful selection of apartments and homes throughout the USA. If it’s your first time renting Airbnb, click here to get the equivalent of $50 CDN off your first booking.
Going to New Orleans? Plan on a Music Festival
We love going to New Orleans for the music, food, drinks and the bon temps throughout the city. Here’s what you need to know if you’re planning to visit New Orleans.
Going to Memphis? Be There on Sunday for Bishop Al Green’s Church Service
Yes, the 70s soul singer Al Green has his own church in Memphis, and as you might expect, the sermon is accompanied by gospel music that raises the roof. We attended service and are glad we did. A once in a lifetime experience. Don’t miss it!
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